Lisbon, Portugal · March 2, 2026
Lisbon on Foot: A Slow Guide to the Hills
A walking-first itinerary through Alfama and Graça, the miradouros worth the climb, and the custard tart debate settled.
Lisbon is a city that makes you earn its views, and then hands them to you for free. We walked until our legs gave out, and it was the best way to see it.
The hills are the point
Every wrong turn in Alfama leads somewhere worth photographing. Don't fight the maze; budget extra time and let it happen.
On the custard tarts
Pastéis de Belém has the history; Manteigaria has the better tart. We tried both, repeatedly, purely in the interest of research.
Written by
Sandy
I'm Sandy. We travel a few times a year and I write the kind of guide I wish I'd had before we went — honest, useful, and light on the fluff. Pull up a chair.
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